Haute Season

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And just like that, another haute couture season has come and gone. While Anna Wintour was flashing smiles court-side at Wimbledon, the rest of the fashion world decamped to Paris for the Autumn 2016 couture shows. Perhaps because of the countless tragedies that unfolded across the world this week, the overall mood surrounding these latest outings felt relatively subdued to seasons past. This mood was reflected in clothes themselves, the majority of which were diaphanous and- if such a thing exists in the haute universe- simple. Circumstances aside, however, I still delighted in the line-ups of my old favorites, including Valentino, Giambattista Valli, and Dior. These three collections, in particular, were brilliant fusions of new and old, signaling the houses into the future without loosing the scent of the past. The “revolutionaries” at Maison Margiela and the Dickensian magpies Viktor & Rolf were delightful, as well.

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This season also brought a few new favorites to my attention, namely Giles and Schiapperelli. The former is the newly-established line of former ready-to-wear designer Giles Deacon, whose smashing debut couture offering hints that a new star may be on the rise. The latter is, of course, the revived house of Else Schiaparelli, the 1930s Italian designer famed for her penchant for Surrealism. With this latest outing, which riffed on Schiaparelli’s 1938 “Circus” collection, designer Bertand Guyon seems to have finally found his footing at a house where the balance between “too much” and “too little” is especially delicate.

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What are your thoughts on the couture shows? I have to admit that I’m already dreaming about next season!


images via Business of Fashion + vogue.com

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