Can it really be that here we are again? It feels like just yesterday that I was writing about the Fall/Winter 2014 couture collections for this blog, all the way back in July! Nostalgia aside, the beginning of Paris Couture Week has not disappointed, so let’s get right to it, shall we?
Garden Variety: Many couturiers toyed with the idea of florals in their latest couture efforts. Alexis Mabille experimented with the idea of marrying the female body with the form of a flower when he crafted his sinewy pieces. Giambattista Valli, on the other hand, relied heavily on his expertise with delicate floral appliqués for his own collection, the theme of which was a what-if scenario of Coco-Chanel-meets-Janis-Joplin (hint: they hit it off). But it was the Kaiser himself, Karl Lagerfeld of Chanel, who went full-on flower power, embracing the punch-packing nature of 4D floral accents for his SS15 couture collection.
Fabric of Our Lives (Well…Dreams): Likewise, various fabrics also had a staring role on the couture runways. At Bouchra Jarar, in particular, it was all about leather, leather, leather. The edgy material, done in a cool sheen that echoed the wardrobes of greasers past, was seen on everything from the lining of cropped tweed jackets to being the entirety of loose pants that mimicked today’s rampant “athleisure” look.
Codes Rewritten: The anonymous design team at Schiaparelli certainly made the recenlt-revived house’s first post-Marco Zanini show one to remember. Rather than follow the former creative director’s footsteps and tear directly from Elsa Schiaparelli’s design playbook, they instead created a fresh, sophisticated line-up of extremely wearable pieces, all adorned with delightful surrealist details. The real showstopper, however, came at Dior. Gone were designer Raf Simons’ (albeit stunning) tributes to Dior’s storied past; this couture collection was one-hundred-percent him. With David Bowie as muse and plastic as the material of choice, Simons’ served up what is sure to be the highlight of the week.
The Skin You’re In…For All of Us to See: Donatella Versace, as per usual, took the word “risqué” to heart when designed the Spring/Summer 2015 Atelier Versace couture collection. (Perhaps in preparation for the upcoming premiere of Fifty Shades of Grey…?) This runways was anything but same-old-same-old, however, as DV experimented with any shape and every shape this season, opening with pant and jumpsuits and closing with barely-there evening dresses fit for the very chicest of the red carpets (Cannes 2015, anyone?).
As you can see/read, it’s been a very exciting few days over in Paris. The week is not yet over, though, and I cam excited to see what the rest of the couturiers have to offer. On my radar? Valentino, which debuts tomorrow at Hôtel Salomon de Rothschild in Paris’ 1st Arrondissement.