NYFW S/S 2015: Viva Versus Versace

As you all know, I was seriously looking forward to this season’s Versus Versace show. With newcomer Anthony Vaccarello teamed up with Donatella Versace to create the collection, there was no doubt on my mind we were in for a pretty magical spring line. Well, the show was last night (September 7), at eight p.m., and let me tell you, it did no disappoint.

One of the things that had me so excited about Versus Versace Spring/Summer 2015 was that I had no idea which direction Vaccarello would take the collection. Would he, a skin-tight leather lover himself, go full-on Gianni on us? Or would he opt for something more towards Donatella’s punker-chic vibe? In the end, he chose to marry the two concepts into one brilliantly executed line up.

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The clothes themselves were a more simple, toned-down (but not in now way dialed back) aesthetic than one would usually associate with the Italian fashion house, but they still were undeniably Versace. Perhaps one of the most memorable pieces were the black mini dresses with safety pins going down the sides, a clear nod towards the infamous Versace gown Elizabeth Hurley wore in 1994. The tributes didn’t stop there. Several pieces were done in a black and white print featuring a proud lion’s head motif, paying homage to the brand’s oft-forgot logo. And although most of the garments were a solid black, almost all were skin-tight (or at least figure-hugging) and included some serious gold hardware à la Donatella.

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In short, I am very, very pleased with what Vaccarello did for Versus Versace’s S/S 2015 collection. His designs were distinctly his own (since when has a Versace collection been that minimalistic?), but by infusing some of the house’s signature moments and motifs he was able to keep in all in the family. Also, I believe his decision to keep the pieces on the relatively simple side was a smart one, as every single garment from the collection was immediately available for purchase online. These black pieces in straightforward silhouettes will read well on the Internet, and no doubt aide in initial sales. After seeing this collection, I hope that the team at Versus decides to keep Anthony Vaccarello on for a while longer, as I believe he has much more to show us in the coming seasons.

What did you think of Anthony Vaccarello for Versus Versace? Did he leave you wanting more, or are you looking for someone else to take the reigns?

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