If there was one show I was looking forward to this week, it would be Elie Saab’s.
Despite my own more minimal tastes, I cannot help but be enchanted by Saab’s heavy use of embellishments and modern day fairytale-esque silhouettes. One might say that his work fails to push the boundaries of fashion; that he plays it too safe, but, to me, Elie Saab’s collections are the pinnacle of haute couture. His designs are always expertly constructed, and never fail to be incredibly detailed. From the way the fabric moves with the body to the pattern of the embellishments decorating the mostly-sheer material Saab is so fond of, it is obvious nothing has been overlooked.
Today’s Fall/Winter 2014 Couture collection proved no different, with the show consisting of fifty show stopping gowns that practically glowed in the intense theatrical lighting. Similar to what Karl Lagerfeld did with his set for yesterday’s Chanel Haute Couture show, Saab and his team elected to keep the models’ makeup and hair very simple (runway simple, that is), allowing the clothes to be the center of attention. The gowns themselves were presented in a rainbow-like procession, with similar silhouettes being presented in a plethora of different colors and shades. As usual, the gowns were mostly an almost-sheer silk chiffon-like material, with a few pieces consisting of a heavier silk. All were adorned with crystals, which spiraled in artful patterns across the pieces and discreetly kept the show from entering nudist territory. Like Lagerfeld yesterday, the finale look was a decidedly “bridal” gown, this one a ball gown of Marie Antoinette proportions, and sequins arranged to mimic traditional lace.
A few newer details did pop up: an off-the-shoulder a-line design featuring horizontal stripes of sequins with completely see-through panels in between, as well as an increased use of fur. The later, when thrown over the shoulders of crystalized ball gown or as the finishing touch across the neck of a model wearing a strapless mini dress emblazoned with jewels, only added the luxurious mood of Saab’s show.
What do you think about Elie Saab’s collection? Is it drop-dead gorgeous or does it fade in comparison to some of the other designers’ collections?
Below are my top three favorite looks from the Elie Saab show. From left to right: Look 6, Look 25, Look 50.